Why Walk Varanasi
The old city of Varanasi is a labyrinth of lanes so narrow that two people can barely pass each other. Motor vehicles cannot enter. The ghats — the stone staircases leading down to the Ganga — have no roads running along them. This is not a city you can see from a car window.
Walking is how Varanasi reveals itself: the sound of temple bells around a corner, the smell of incense mixing with frying kachori, a sudden view of the river at the end of a dark lane, a 400-year-old doorway you would never notice from a boat. The three routes below cover the essential Varanasi — the sacred ghat walking route, the living old city with food stops along the way, and the green university campus — each with a completely different character.
Route 1: The Ghat Walk
The definitive Varanasi walk. You will follow the riverfront path from the southernmost major ghat (Assi) to Panchganga Ghat in the north, passing bathing pilgrims, yoga practitioners, cremation grounds, and the most photographed stretch of riverfront in India. Best done at dawn.
Best time: Early morning, 5:30-8:30 AM. The light is golden, the ghats are alive with rituals, and the heat has not set in yet.
Difficulty: Easy. Flat stone steps with some uneven sections. Watch your footing near the water's edge — steps can be slippery with algae and morning dew.
Assi Ghat
5:30 AMMorning aarti at sunrise. Grab chai from a ghat vendor. Calm start.
Tulsi Ghat
6:00 AMNamed after the poet-saint Tulsidas. Beautiful crumbling architecture.
Kedar Ghat
6:20 AMRed-and-white striped walls. One of the most photogenic ghats in Varanasi.
Harishchandra Ghat
6:45 AMSmaller cremation ghat. Observe quietly, no photographs. Keep walking.
Dashashwamedh Ghat
7:15 AMThe beating heart of Varanasi. Stop for kachori-sabzi breakfast here.
Man Mandir Ghat
7:45 AMLate 16th-century Rajput architecture. Ask locally about the historic observatory above.
Scindia Ghat
8:00 AMThe iconic tilted Shiva temple sinking into the river. Best at low water.
Manikarnika Ghat
8:10 AMMain cremation ghat, burning 24/7. Walk through silently. No photos.
Panchganga Ghat
8:30 AMEndpoint. Named for five legendary rivers said to meet here. Alamgir Mosque towers above.
Route 2: Old City Lane Walk
This is the Varanasi that most tourists miss — the living, breathing old city behind the ghats. Narrow lanes (called galis) barely wide enough for one person, tiny temples tucked into walls, silk weavers working handlooms in dark rooms, and the chaos of daily life in one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth. The highlight is Vishwanath Gali — Varanasi's most famous lane, packed with silk shops, sweet stalls, and temple supplies.
Best time: 9:00-11:00 AM. Shops are open, the lanes are buzzing but not yet at peak crowd. Avoid afternoon heat.
Difficulty: Moderate. The lanes are narrow, crowded, and disorienting. You will get lost. That is part of the experience. Bulls, motorbikes, and handcarts share the same lanes — stay alert.
Godowlia Chowk
9:00 AMStarting point. The gateway between new and old Varanasi.
Vishwanath Gali
9:15 AMThe famous lane to Kashi Vishwanath. Silk shops, sweet stalls, temple supplies.
Kashi Vishwanath Corridor
9:30 AMThe grand new corridor. Security check required. Phones allowed, bags may not be.
Silk Weaving Workshops
10:00 AMStep into a side lane to watch weavers at handlooms. Free to observe.
Deena Chaat Bhandar
10:20 AMFamous chena dahi vada. A perfect mid-walk snack stop on Luxa Road.
Residential Lanes
10:40 AMNarrow lanes with hanging laundry, temple bells, children playing. The real Varanasi.
Dashashwamedh Ghat
11:00 AMEmerge at the river. The lane walk ends where the ghat walk begins.
Route 3: BHU Campus Walk
After the intensity of the ghats and old city, the Banaras Hindu University (BHU) campus is a deep exhale. Wide tree-lined avenues, green lawns, a world-class museum, and the striking New Vishwanath Temple — all inside one of the largest university campuses in Asia. A perfect afternoon counterbalance.
Best time: Afternoon, 3:00-5:00 PM. The campus is shaded, and the museum and temple are open. Avoid lunchtime when the museum is closed.
Difficulty: Easy. Wide, flat, paved paths. Wheelchair and stroller accessible (unlike the rest of Varanasi).
BHU Main Gate
3:00 PMGrand entrance to one of Asia's largest residential universities.
Tree-Lined Avenues
3:15 PMWide, shaded roads. A world apart from the chaos of old Varanasi.
Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum
3:30 PMExcellent collection of miniature paintings, sculptures & textiles. INR 20/100.
New Vishwanath Temple
4:15 PMMarble temple built by the Birla family. Open to all castes and faiths.
Botanical Gardens
4:45 PMQuiet green space to end the walk. Benches, old trees, birdsong.
What to Wear & Carry
Clothing
- Modest clothing — shoulders and knees covered (for temples)
- Light, breathable fabrics (cotton is ideal)
- A scarf or dupatta for women (useful at temples)
- Layers in winter (December-February mornings are cold: 5-10 degrees Celsius)
- Dark colors hide the dust and grime better
Essentials
- Sturdy sandals with grip (not flip-flops)
- Water bottle (refill at guesthouses, not single-use plastic)
- Small cash in INR 10, 20, 50 denominations
- Sunscreen and sunglasses (October-March mornings are deceptive)
- Offline Google Maps downloaded for Varanasi
- Hand sanitizer and tissues
Local Tip
Skip the guided 'heritage walks' that start at ₹2,000+ per person — they cover the same route you can walk yourself with a good map. The free walking tour by Varanasi Walks is the exception, genuinely run by locals who share stories you won't find online.